U of M “Insight” Fashion Show
9 Feb
On Saturday evening, the graduating Seniors of the University of Minnesota Apparel Design Program showed off their final academic works in what was one of the most cohesive and well-constructed shows of a young year that has already seen some quality design. Hosted by Anna Lee of MNFashion, the show was titled “Insight”, and promised to give a look into the workings of each of the students. The sets by each designer invariably contained a dress, a skirt a blouse and trousers in some combination to show the versatility of the designer and the overall quality of construction showed that they had paid great attention to the practical application portions of their coursework. If these designers continue to work independently and in collaboration (as some already are doing, getting a real-time education as well) then we should look for some exciting design in our boutiques and on our catwalks soon.
Emily Bryngelson, who has recently launched her own line, Tender Cuts, offered a line that although it incoprotated some bold colors and origami designs, seemed less effervescent than the works she showed at the Cliché “Avoid the Grey” showcase. However, the construction of the pieces and the eye for detail continued to show promise for the young designer. Particularly astute was an outfit consisting of a white blouse with a light grey whorl print paired with a two-tone red skirt with a diamond panel front and peek-a-boo pockets lined with the same whorl pattern in red.
Amanda Brossard offered up the first real outré taste of the evening with her crocheted pieces worn over slim cut trousers, blouses and dresses. With their loose brown yarn, the jackets and singlets were a nod to the contemporary craft renaissance and the simple dress whose knitted bolero coat gave the impression of butterfly wings was elegant statement.
Inspired by the architecture of Los Angeles, Cassie Hanson brought a series in creams and rich brown wool patterned in both over-sized and micro-check wools. The cuts gave generous folds and collars that draped structurally to reveal touches of royal blue in the linings, a welcome luxurious touch. At this point in the show, though, it was not without irony that I noticed the coupon for 25% off Banana Republic on the back of my ticket.
Then, to the bouncing strains of “Jump in the Line (Shake Senora)” Dee Bayley sent out a four models in Reebok flats and sunglasses, dressed in a line of sportswear that channeled summer in the Hamptons. A buoyant mix of navy blue, tan and mustard yellow, the shorts, culottes and jackets were a confident vision of summer fun that added some verve to the proceedings. The models too, seemed to be enjoying the confidence of the clothes and the whole line was ready-to-wear hit.The evening’s lone male designer, Lee Jackson was a direct counterpoint to Bayley’s summer fun, presenting a line of austere black and white numbers whose cited “abstract expressionism” influence was much more Robert Motherwell than Jackson Pollock. Jackson’s balanced but asymmetrical designs could definitely be an addition to the little black cocktail dress/80s party girl collection, and done up with a well-chosen accessory.
Judy Bender’s line that followed, I say pretty emphatically, was one of the best things I have seen in the Twin Cities, not just in this young year, but for a good while. Bender’s bio started with the Coco Chanel quote that “A girl should be two things, classy and fabulous”, which is a lot to live up to, but the chess-inspired looks were ravishing. The bold patterns and classic lines of the dresses, high-waisted trousers and jackets, trimmed with pencil-thin coils of patent leather and exquisitely sculpted ruff pleats were not only exactingly cut and sewn, but imperially poised. The whole line felt like it belonged in a ’66 Alfa Romeo, on the way to Cinecittà to lunch with Marcello and Sophia, and then look over the Federico’s rushes. It was no mean feat following Bender, but Dawn Charbonneau’s over-the-top line based off the fairy tale of Alaeddin was far enough afield not to warrant any comparisons. Charbonneau deserves credit for going all out with the Vivienne Westwood-esque line and although two of the four looks (“Alaeddin” and “The Magician”) felt hodge-podge and incomplete, the cut-out cape effect that swirled like smoke around the feet of “Princess Badr al-Badur” and gold trussed and crinoline dress of the “Jinni” were well-concieved, constructed and wild enough to promise us an interesting ride.Jennafer Crammer’s Rococco line had it’s charms, especially with it’s use of silks and floral brocade touches on dresses and chemises that recalled mid-century designs from Oleg Cassini. The quality of the clothes, however, was offset by the hair and makeup of the models- the pouty geisha lipstick and off-grey matted gel in the hair did nothing to complement the aristocratic bent of the clothes. Take it as one last lesson.
As soon as Shirley Schlievert’s first look, a white chemise with charcoal trousers and a metallic grey shawl, I thought to myself that this was something that Dame Judi Dench might wear out. With gossamer petal shoulders on a Payne’s grey dress, the elegantly minimal line focusing on silvers and metallic greys seemed more restrained than your average undergrad, and when Schlievert took the stage, her simple black slip dress and long silver hair fit right in.
After some more restrained lines, even the relatively demure palette of Christina Armstrong’s roses, teals, grey, royal blue and gold thread seemed a riot on stage. Armstrong had hand silk-screened details, as well as taken the challenging step of hand burning velvet to create patterns that provided an embellishment on her looks and had partnered with BMF Jewelry to create custom bracelets and earrings in the form of linked gold cogs to emphasize her steam-punk inspiration. All these embellishments were well-executed, however, layered on top of eachother they all fought for focus, returning to the axiom to always take one thing off before you leave the house.
It’s amazing that we got this far into the evening without someone playing Lady Gaga, but Carmen Tsang finally buckled down and did it. Gaga, of course, now comes with certain sartorial expectations and although Tsang’s black-based with a shot of neon color looks was certainly not as outré as Ms. Germanotta’s wardrobe, they did hold their own independently. Fond of swooping drapes, such as the crossed hood of the dark cerulean jacket or the acid yellow chiffon punctuating a dark pencil skirt and high-necked jacket, the clothes were one big punch, as opposed to death by a thousand angles or hula-hoops.The line of long flowing dresses shown by Carol Berger would have been right at home in a Tennyson poem, or maybe an artist colony in Laguna Beach. Her hand dyed fabrics in blues and greens definitely recalled Monet’s “Waterlilies,” as was her stated intention and she had full panels of shimmering burnt velvet, and the execution was all there, even if the design of the clothes felt more rote by classics than inspired by contemporaries.
The final designer of the night, Mae Rodgers, ended the night with explosions of organza and lace, tumbling out from under the structures of hoop skirts, bursting around necklines. This added a light and playful feel to her elegance that counter-pointed the somewhat Victorian inspiration and slate grey flannel suiting, a delicate balance that Rodgers struck well. The patchwork and stitching used as detailing on her looks were an appropriate nod to the craft of tailoring that she, along with the rest of her class, seem to have taken mastery.Before the Seniors went out, the Junior and Sophomore classes each had the opportunity to show a look, and there were some names and looks there are a good omen for the future of the program. Of particular interest were the unisex, hooded jersey slip of Nick Ruffalo, Laura Heslin’s large-paneled camelhair peacoat as well as a quartet of corsets, of which, Kelly Ver Duin’s wide-whaled herringbone number stood out. Sophomore Sara Lopez also stood out with a long-sleeved, electric chartreuse mini-dress that would kill out on the town. The kids are going to be alright indeed.
See all of Staciaann’s photographs of the event here!
















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